The most time consuming part of the uploading/pushing in microstock is categorizing images on certain microstock websites.? The worst offenders are Dreamstime, Bigstock, Fotolia, and Shutterstock.? Categorizing takes time and the more time you spend, the less you are earning per hour.

I use two methods to ensure I spend as little time on categories as possible.? The first is to know the categories on each site.? The second is to “type” categories rather than mouse to them.

Know Categories

The first thing you need is a list of categories on each site.? I’ve saved you a LOT of time and put together a canononical list of categories on these four sites.

Download the list here

It’s a printable word document (four pages) that lists every category and subcategory on each site.

Type Categories

Bigstock

Click the first category and close it.? Type the first letter of the main category until you reach the one you want.? Tab, then type the first letter of the sub category.? For instance, Objects > Over White = O Tab O.? People > Men = P Tab M.? When you’ve finished the first category press tab again to go to the second and repeat through all three categories.? When you get quick at this you should be able to do all three categories much faster than clicking directly on them.

Dreamstime

Dreamstime gives us a bit of a headache for a couple of reasons.? First, many categories start with the same letter.? Industry, IT&C, Illustrations…? So what we do to save time is click to open the first category, click the first letter of the main category then simply scroll and click the right subcategory.? Not as time-saving as the rest but effective nonetheless.? Unfortunately because the categories are “all in one” on Dreamstime, there’s no simpler way.

Fotolia

Simply put there is no fast way to categorize at Fotolia.? I *ABHOR* categorizing here.? I put it off for so long.? If you have been watching my charts you know that I made a real “job” of Fotolia last month and added over 1000 new images!? I simply had that many stored up from not doing them.? THE most important part of categorizing at Fotolia is knowing the categories.? Please refer to the chart often and make it as fast as possible.

Shutterstock

The terms of service at Shutterstock include categories and descriptions so I’ve included them on the list above.? They are the best to type other than Bigstock.? I do end up tabbing a LOT though – but for me it’s faster.? To type categories, open & close the first one as you did with Bigstock.? Now type the first letter until you get the category you want.?? (ie. A = Abstract, AA = Animals/Wildlife, T=Technology, TH or TT = The Arts, TR or TTT = Transportation)? Note – Shutterstock includes “VECTORS” as a category on their list but this category doesn’t actually exist.? I included it because they did.

After the first category, press tab.? Now type the second category.? Press tab (space if you need to check the first box), tab (space if you need to check the second box), tab (type “I” for “I will include it now” for a model release, “E” for Editorial, no release needed) and then tab all the way to the next category on the next image.? Basically you can tab all the way through Shutterstock’s submission process and you should.? It takes you through the keywords of the second image, etc. but you will get back to categories and once you know how many tabs between each field you can easily just type your way through the form without ever once touching the mouse after the first two clicks to open and close the first category.? I can submit a batch of 50 Shutterstock in about 5 minutes or less.? I will time it soon.

Batch and Groups

I was reminded by Adelaide that one other speed tip on categories is to do bulk/recent whenever possible.? Bigstock lets you select “Import from previous image” so series’ are great there.? Dreamstime, Fotolia and IStock also allow you to do batch/bulk categories.?? Using these tools will also speed up your categorization.? Thanks for the reminder!

Ok?? Conclusions?

So that’s it.? I type my way through almost every set of categories I possibly can.? I have a cheat sheet to know what those categories are and I spend as little time doing the boring humdrum work of stock as possible.

Hope the sheet and the tips help!

All in one place and organized by microstock agency, I present to you the canonical list of rejection reasons microstock agencies use to kick your photos (not vectors or videos)? to the curb.

There are two quick notes on this:

1) It’s incomplete – IStock and StockXpert refused to give me a list.? The 123RF list was given to me by Alex and should be fairly complete.? The Bigstock list is fully done.? I believe I caught every Fotolia and Shutterstock reason.? The other lists are created from my own rejections, a bit of research, and some help from an anonymous reviewer.? Vivozoom provided a list as well.

So feel free to contribute to the list, help me make changes, edit things I added if they’ve changed since I last received a particular rejection.? Whatever – it’s interactive and incomplete.? Thanks to the commentators who’ve helped me improve this list!

2) As mentioned above, this is for PHOTOS only.? I am not including the list for vectors or video because a) they weren’t given to me and b) I don’t submit many of those file types so I have way less experience there.

123RF

• Poor Lighting/Composition
• Minimal commercial value
• Potential copyright issue
• Visible branding/logo
• Similar image accepted
• Keywords in English Only
• Bad composition
• Bad focus
• Enlargement has been done and it?s not tolerable.
• Looks like a snapshot.

Bigstock

• Artifact Problems: Noise/Grain/Chromatic or other artifacts due to low light, blue or purple fringing, high ISO, over-sharpening or post processing techniques.
• Blurry: Image is not very crisp or is blurred when viewed at full size.
• Dull, lifeless color: Colors are dull or lackluster.
• Exposure problem:? Image is too dark or too light, not properly exposed.
• Hard shadows:? Caused by on-camera flash. Try not to use flash, use more fill light instead. Flash often creates hard ugly shadows, thanks
• Jagged edges: Isolation has jagged edges, anti-aliasing problems, or background is not clean.
• Low interest subject:? Probably little demand/selling potential for this image. Try for more marketable shots.
• Not newsworthy enough for Editorial Use:? Images submitted as Editorial need to be news, or current events, or commentary worthy. This image does not appear newsworthy enough.
• Poor composition/Cropped subject: Chopping off part of subject makes photo harder to use generally
• Potential copyright / trademark / privacy issue with photo (could be: copyrighted art, visible logo, license plate number, etc)
• Recognizable person without Model Release…
• Similarity: Image too similar to others already submitted. Try selecting only a few of your very best shots for submission of this subject.
• Snapshot composition: This image is more of a snapshot than a marketable stock image. Overall problems can include poor lighting, poor composition, non-interesting subject matter, etc.
• Subject not evident enough – hard to tell what the subject of the photo is
• Too Sexually Explicit:? Can’t accept fully exposed breasts, buttocks or genitals. Or image may be too overtly sexually suggestive.
• Upload problem: Please re-upload this image, there appears to have been a problem with the original upload, thanks.
• We have enough of this subject already…sorry.

Dreamstime

• The image contains elements that might be protected by copyright/trademark (logos, brands, specific buildings etc.), can identify a property/product (letters, numbers), or could raise usage problems, therefore it doesn’t qualify as a RF stock image.
• Poor color: this image has a low color profile and needs improvement in order to increase its sales potential.
• Poor lighting setup, poor contrast or incorrect exposure.
• This is a very well covered subject in our data base or the subject of your image is too specific. We are looking for images that exceed the technical quality and creativity of the images already online.
• The image includes recognizable humans. It cannot be accepted without a model release signed by your subject(s). If the people within your photo are not the main subject but their faces are visible, then you also need a MR for each person whose face is visible.
• Distorted pixels due to poor sensor performance, image was interpolated, poorly scanned, upsampled or JPG was not saved at the highest quality.
• This image is overfiltered. Its use for the potential designers is limited because of this, therefore the image is disqualified as a RF stock-oriented image.
• Image is out of focus or too much of the subject is out of focus (DOF too shallow or DOF not justified) / Image is shaken. Use a faster speed or a tripod.
• Witness’s print name missing
• Model Release document is incomplete.
• Lack of composition.
• Model’s signature missing.
• We have reviewed your file and this is not quite what we?re looking for.

Fotolia

• Quality of the photograph – Your photograph did not reach our desired level of aesthetic quality.
• Type of photograph – Your photographic work is excellent but does not meet the needs of the Fotolia customer base.
• Technical problems – The image contains one or more technical problems:
  • Blurry or out of focus
  • Over/Under exposure
  • Framing problem
  • Over or under saturated colors
  • Problems with contrast
  • Noise or Pixelation
  • Quality of routing
  • Interpolation problem
• Model/Property Release – However we discovered a problem (legal problem, lack of signature, wrong file format, or it was illegible) with the model/property release that you submitted.
• Overabundant Category – Fotolia has received an overabundant amount of high quality images similar to this photo and does not have need of more photos like it.
• Non conformity – The photographs in the Fotolia database are intended for sale to multiple buyers. Your photograph while attractive does not meet a level of neutrality for our buyers.
• Similar Photograph – the same or similar photograph was already submitted to Fotolia.

IStock

• The execution of isolation contains stray areas that are either too feathered or rough.
• This file contains artifacting when viewed at full size. This technical issue is commonly created by the quality settings in-camera, in post-processing or in RAWsettings. Artifacting may be the result of other factors such as excessive level adjustments.
• We found the overall composition of this file?s lighting could be improved. Technical aspects that can affect the overall quality of lighting are: flat/dull colors, blown-out highlights, harsh reflection, shadows or lens flares. These can all limit the usefulness of a file.
• In review of this file, we found the lighting underexposed
• We found this file over filtered from its original appearance/quality.
• This file contains artifacting when viewed at full size (probably due to oversharpening). This technical issue is commonly created by the quality settings in-camera or in post-processing.
• The keywords used for this file do not appear to be fully relevant to the subject.
• Your file contains stray/hot/dead pixels or sensor spots.
  • Sensor spots: Commonly caused from dust on the sensor of your camera. These darker areas usually show up in lighter areas of the file such as skies.
  • Hot Pixels: Dead pixels on your camera?s sensor. Sometimes caused by extreme temperatures, and may become permanent.

Thanks to Tim for the IStock list!

Shutterstock

• Focus–Your image is not in focus or focus is not located where we feel it works best.
• Composition–Limited commercial value due to framing, cropping, and/or composition.
• Poor Lighting–Poor or uneven lighting, or shadows. White balance may be incorrect.
• Lighting Problems–Purple fringe, blown highlights or lenses flare.
• Noise–Noise, film grain, over-sharpening, or artifacts at full size.
• Glitch–There was a technical problem with your upload. Please resubmit.
• Trademark–Contains potential trademark or copyright infringement–not editorial.
• Overuse–Overuse of noise reduction software.
• Keywords–Your keywords must directly relate to the image (relevancy). Please edit your keyword choices and resubmit.
• Editing–Your illustration has rough edges.
• Limited Commercial Value–We do not need this image at this time
• Similar Submissions–Too many of the same subject.

StockXpert

• Image contains too much noise/grain/pixilation
• Some keywords are not relevant to the image.
• Image requires a model release.
• Please improve isolation/editing.
• Thank you, but we have too many like this.
• Poor Lighting.
• Image requires a property release.
• Thank you but we are not interested in this subject matter or situation.
• Poor isolation – elements of the background are not acceptable.
• Cropping should be improved.
• Image contains too much dust.

VivoZoom

• Focus issue
• Overfiltering/Sharpening/Upsizing
• Over/Under exposed
• Digital Noise/Jagged lines/Pixelation
• Image content not required
• Lighting issue
• Composition/Cropping issue
• Copyright/Trademark issue
• Provenance
  • Model release missing or insufficient
  • Property release missing or insufficient
  • Sample text needs to be removed
  • Text copyright issues
  • Supply original image used to create illustration
  • Release on original artwork missing or insufficient

Today is going to be fun I hope – I’m going to show you how I edit.? I don’t claim it’s the ONLY way.? I’m not even sure it’s the BEST way.? But it’s fast.? REALLY fast.

This image was shot over grey instead of white because I like the flexibility of being able to isolate on white OR having some texture to a background if I want to colorize the available texture with some sort of blend mode.? For stock, I’d always turn this white though and let the buyer decide what to do with it later.

The entire edit ends up taking less than 2 minutes.? You can add another 15 seconds because after I finished recording I realized his shirt had a few small mistakes on the edge so I cleaned it up.? At any rate, editing at this speed would give you 30 images per hour or slightly under.? At even 20 images an hour, you could edit 100 images in 5 hours.? That would be quick and gives you 3 hours of “work day” to keyword, upload, push and submit those 100 images.? People have asked me before how I plan to sub 100 a day – this is the general idea.? Of course some days you have to shoot.? Some days you don’t get 100 edited and subbed.? Heck, MOST days I don’t.

Every trick you can learn will help you.? The difference in 10 images per hour and 15 is also the same as 1000 online vs 1500 or 10,000 vs. 15,000.? The difference in 5 images per hour and 30 is 6x your income each month.? Speed IS necessary.

Click the photo above for the video on what I did.? There’s no audio – it’s a visual process.? Tools used:

• Wand – grab the grey background.
• Lasso – select and unselect with shift and alt after the initial selection has been made.
• Feather 1, backspace – clear the grey background.
• F5 – custom action for curves.? Just brightens it up 2 steps.? I undid one to find a happy balance.
• [ and ] to resize the brush.
• Dodge/highlights around the hair.
• Eraser to trim unclean edges.
• Contrast for skin tone.
• Clone for the logo.
• Brush – for the screwdriver (alt-clicked the color nearby to grab it)
• Smart sharpen – 60/1.3 I think.
• After the vid ends, I also used clone on the edge of the shirt a bit.

To show you what my 2 minutes did, I’ve uploaded a watermarked version of this finished image to here.? One of my next goals is to upload some actual Photoshop tutorials – one using only the keyboard, NO mouse.? One as a speed drill and whatever else you guys want.

Every day for four years, someone has posted about their “first 10 being rejected” by Shutterstock, StockXpert, or other agencies.? When you are trying to start in microstock photography, that first batch is often the hardest.? I’ve narrowed down a few reasons why it’s so? hard to get started and some ideas for getting approved.

1) Submit a variety of images.
This seems simple but you should always ensure that your first batch is not 10 textures, 10 photos of your kids in mixed light, 10 photos of a piece of toast, etc.? The more you mix it up, the more you’ve shown the agency that you are going to be a prolific shooter with a good mix of images,? not a one-time submitter who will waste reviewer time with a bunch of rejected shots of your kids opening Christmas presents.

2) Stay within your abilities.

Your stock artist application is not the place to get fancy with things you’ve never done before.? Avoid hard sidelighting, isolated images on white and textures.? Isolations seem *so* easy but it’s *so* easy to mess up edges, leave them smoother or rougher than a particular agency wants, etc.? Textures are almost ALWAYS blurry unless you’ve used a tripod, a small aperture (f/11?) and a remote.? While readily available you’d rather get those rejected in your second batch, after you’ve been approved.

3) Avoid the common rejections.

Common rejection reasons are:

• poor lighting (purple fringe, harsh shadows, wrong white balance, backlit when it shouldn’t be)
• copyright/trademark violations – remove all logos, names, everything that identifies clothes, objects, etc.
• image out of focus – “Your image is not in focus or focus is not located where we feel it works best.“
• noise, grain or artifacts – the ability to “see” noise for microstock is an art form.? When in doubt, give it a touch of blur/neat image but not too much.? (This sky has noise – I can see it, can you?)

4) Include model releases.

Model releases are required for any image with a recognizable human.? If you are submitting photos with people in it, use a release, especially for your first 10.? After that you can distinguish between recognizable and not but for the first 10, if you have a human in it, include a model release.? We are all about getting you accepted right?

Download a copy of the form I use for adults here

5) Submit new work.

Most photographers continually improve over time.? Don’t submit work that is over 6-12 months old.?? Your images from 6 months ago do not represent your best work and if they do you should keep shooting before attempting microstock.? Your newest work likely represents your best efforts.? If you’ve recently been rejected on your applications you now have a month!? Get out and shoot, create new images, and try to make 50 great stock photos.? From that, choose the best 10.

6) Don’t leave notes for the reviewers.

Some peope may disagree but I think “This is my 3rd application PLEASE accept me!” or “Thanks for looking…again.”? just scream “I’ve already been rejected by someone else, you should really look? hard at my stuff because typically it hasn’t been good enough.

7) Shoot continuously.

Whether your batch was rejected this month or last month, next month or in three months, eventually with persistence and some talent you will get in.? Once you are in an agency, the standards are typically a LOT easier than on those first 10 images.? If you’ve been shooting continuously, you will have images to immediately submit for review.

8- Submit 10 NEW images when you resubmit your rejected application.

I admit – I have no idea why this works but nearly everyone suggests submitting 10 brand new images as the best way of getting accepted.? This may refer back to #5 – don’t submit old images as you’ve gotten better.? Just follow the time-tested advice of the pros and submit images you’ve never submitted before each time.

9) Avoid subjects stock agencies reject.

Although you *can* get images of flowers, eyeballs, dogs and sunsets approved on your first application reviewers are used to hitting “reject” on those once you’re actually in.? Shooting those images for your first 10 does not tell a reviewer whether you can shoot stock as sunsets, dogs and flowers are NOT typically accepted unless the images are spectacular.? Why give them a reason?

10) Edit clean, professional images.

• No black & white images – stick to color.
• Accurate white balance.
• Good histogram/levels – true white & black in the image.
• Sharp, noise free.
• Keep all cloning, healing, etc. to a minimum.

A good microstock photographer can submit a variety of well-lit, compositionally interesting images with good white balance, no noise and do it regularly.? All agencies want to see that you can do the same.? Whether you’re a new microstock photographer learning to do this for the first time or you’ve been on Bigstock and Dreamstime for a year and are trying to make the leap to IStock and Shutterstock, hopefully if you follow these 10 tips you’ll have a much easier time getting accepted!

Bonus tip: 11) Get professional help. Have someone else review your images, whether that’s in the Shutterstock Critique forum, another photography website, etc.? A second pair of eyes, especially one trained in microstock, can sometimes catch mistakes before you submit.? This will save you many 30-day cycles if you catch rejects before you bother submitting them.? Good luck!

Welcome back to another exciting episode of SlowLinks, my version of Speedlinks but with far too many for it to be considered speedy.

Today’s SlowLinks book list is all about books you should read in the coming year.? I listed books about photography, microstock, business, branding, personal advancement and growth as well as organization and motivation.

These have been accumulated through conversations with other photographers, small business owners and in my own reading.? I tend to read a *lot* of business books and own about 99.9% of the books on the list.

Nobody will be surprised that the #1 book on this list is The Long Tail.? After that, hopefully more than a few are new to you.? These are *not* in order so read whatever appeals to you.? We’ll probably talk about a lot of these in 2009.

1. The Long Tail – Chris Anderson

2. Light, Science & Magic – Fil Hunter

3. Lighting and the Dramatic Portrait – Michael Grecco

4. Matters of Light & Depth – Ross Lowell

5. The Moment It Clicks – Joe McNally

6. Understanding Exposure – Bryan Peterson

7. Microstock Photography: How to Make Money from your Digital Images – Douglas Freer

8. Digital Stock Photography: How to Shoot & Sell – Michael Heron

9. Tell the World You Don’t Suck: Modern Marketing for Commercial Photographers – Leslie Burns

10. Love is the Killer Ap – Tim Sanders

11. Tipping Point – Malcolm Gladwell

12. Blue Ocean Strategy – W. Chan Kim

13. Good to Great – Jim Collins

14. Getting Things Done – David Allen

15. Talent is Never Enough – John Maxwell

16. Primal Branding – Alan Sklar

17. Creating Customer Evangelists – Ben McConnell

18. It’s Not How Good You Are, It’s How Good You Want to Be – Paul Arden

19. The Millionaire Mind – Thomas Stanley

20. The Brand Called You – Peter Montoya

Disclaimer: these are all Amazon Affiliate links.? If that bugs you, search them on Amazon.

Here’s a hint: no matter how good of a photographer you are today, you’ll either be better in three years or you won’t be a microstock photographer any longer.? Standards improve so fast, so much that if you aren’t constantly learning a “new trick” you are going to get? surpassed extremely quickly in image quality, control of light, etc.

We have made it a priority for the last year to improve our work.? I think it has improved a thousandfold and I’m still learning.? One way to do that is by using video tutorials to learn new skills.? Youtube is great for old NBA videos but it’s surprisingly good for instructional video as well.

Try these:

http://www.youtube.com/user/prophotolife 26 episodes of photo goodness

http://www.youtube.com/user/PhotoGavin

and there are incredibly numerous Photoshop Tutorials:

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=photoshop+tutorial&search_type=&aq=f

And that’s that! Go learn. No photo because of the vid.

Google is all about content.? Forums are FULL of content.? A lot of microstock forums are full of REALLY bad ?pimping? threads – where you show off your latest ?X Topic? image.? “Show us your Red Balloons.”? Google hates those threads because a) nobody talks on them really and b) they have bad titles and no real keywords.? If you really want to ?pimp your images? on a microstock site?s forum here?s the best way I know of.

Great title

Stock images of red objects

Great text

Looking for your microstock photos of objects in red, preferably new, interesting red objects please. We want both designers and photographers to post.

Now that?s how you do it for the best Google effect.

Then the replies should be Google friendly.

Here is my red balloon stock image for download.

If you REALLY want to pimp a certain topic, post a link to the forum link somewhere else.? Your myspace, blog, xanga, blogger – anywhere.? A simple link like <a href=?http://www.forumname.com/forum/topicid?>Royalty free stock images of red balloons</A>? The more times you post that on different domains, the more Google loves that topic.

Ideas can come from anywhere.? As a stock photographer, your job is to make them come from everywhere.? There are 2 steps to coming up with great stock ideas:

1) Create or visualize the concept.

2) Record the idea in a medium other than your brain.

Create or visualize the concept

The area most stock photographers struggle with is the creation of new stock ideas.? If you are sitting at your desk everyday, you won?t come up with many ideas.? Ideas for stock are based on activities and the world.? Activities are based in magazines and on websites as well but mainly, ideas are what life is – go where there?s life and your ideas will flow.? Visit a beach.? Imagine your model walking on the beach, swimming, maybe there?s a volleyball game going on.? Anywhere you see people doing anything – that?s an idea.? Maybe a family is having a bbq and another a picnic.? Two ideas?? What about twenty?? Photos of the bbq grill, photos of the meat cooking, photos of veggies cooking, photos of people eating, photos of a family around the food, photos of the picnic table setup, photos of the charcoal while it?s hot & red.

Record the idea in a medium other than your brain

If you don?t carry a notebook, start.? Write down EVERY idea you have – you may not have it again, at least for a long time.? You don?t want to let your ideas slip – either abstract & conceptual or specific like ?woman wiping sweat off her forehead, woman drinking from a clear bottle? whatever.? Just write it down, type it out, record it somehow that doesn?t rely on your brain.

I?m a chronic measurer.? I need to know how much, how long, how many, how can I?? I measure my speed editing weddings, I measure my speed editing a portrait shoot, I measure how many images we take vs. keep, how many we shoot at a portrait session vs. a stock session.? I measure EVERYTHING.? How long my cards take to DL, how long it takes LR to import them.? I can make better decisions if I have more information.

SO – one thing I have no information on is the question ?How many stock images can be edited, keyworded, uploaded & submitted in one 7 day period??

I?m going to find out.

In my ongoing research, I could not find a submitter who had contributed more than 1023 images in one month to Dreamstime (without having a preexisting large collection offline).? (IOFoto did 1023)? My goal is to come AS CLOSE to 1023 new images in the next 7 days as possible.? Keep in mind that there?s 2 of us – Sarah shoots.? I shoot, edit, keyword, upload & submit.? So I do have new images coming in everyday.? She shot some today, she has a 3 hour model shoot tomorrow & other ideas lined up all week.

The rules: Sunday May 25th, 12:00am until Saturday May 31st, 11:59pm.? No forums, no blogs, no IM, no email except twice a day (need to check on my clients), no anything but stock for 7 days.? Just to see what can be accomplished.? The goal: 1024 of course.?*laugh*

Serious goals:

under 200 = failure.
201 to 400 = acceptable range.
400-500 = great!
500+ = stunning & excellent!

Wish me luck – although unless you write in email or within the next 40 minutes, I won?t see it for a week!

This is a fantastic trick that helps your model understand the session you have planned (and helps you execute it and not get sidetracked).? Simply come up with a title for your shoot and pass it along to the model.? Maybe something that?s the title of a song, a book, a movie, something made up – whatever.? As long as you & the model are on the same page, you?ll go far.

For example – our last shoot we wanted to do a painter, artist, writer & pianist set – all with one model.? So I called the set ?Portrait of An Artist? and she got it.? She understood our vision was an inside peek AT an artist at work.? We did our set and it was a great shoot.

Another example is an upcoming soon.? The model wrote ?I do martial arts – tae kwon do, capeoira etc.
I also do weapons training – swords, sai?s, staves, etc.??? Now, I know my martial arts well so I immediately thought of a title for this – Only the Strong.? There is a movie with the same title and so I immediately went to that as my inspiration.? Now, our model will know the source of our inspiration and react accordingly.

One more great reason to use titles – it?s fun!? Seriously, what?s more fun ?we?re going out to shoot some martial arts? or ?We have our ?Only the Strong? shoot today????C?mon!

Ok, ok, one more good reason – finding images & naming folders.? When we have no title, I name my folders by date.? 20080410 for April 10th, 2008?s shoots.? Boring.? Hard to find too.? 20080410 Portrait of an Artist with Tammy?? Now THAT is a folder.